Categories
Uncategorized

Aventon Level 3 MIK Adapter Plate

Remember when I got an ebike? It came with a rear rack, which is handy. I added one (along with a bag) to my old Trek, and I used it all the time. I found that commuting to work often required me to move things, and a milk crate on the back worked well, but the zip ties meant it was a pain to put on and take off, so a quick release mount is a good option.

And guess what? The Aventon Level 3 might be MIK compatible. I say “might” because it’s tricky…

I asked Aventon for specs on the rear rack that ships with the Aventon Level 3 and they could not (or would not) provide them. I ended up modeling a version of the rack so I could virtually model something for it. (Note: The model is not perfect, but worked for my needs.)

Meanwhile I found this MIK adapter plate on Printables so I thought I would give it a try. (I loaded the STL file with the rack model I created and it looked it would fit.)

Does it work? Yes, but… But it’s 3D printed. This means you can make one for a very low cost as compared to buying one. (Here’s the real thing, at $40 USD.) I used ASA filament and a roll is $30 USD so I can print about a dozen adapter plates…

The first one I printed was actually PLA to make sure things worked. I used it with the milk crate on my bike rack and it did work. I destroyed it when I grabbed the crate to move the bike. Bad idea! The ebike weight over 65 pounds. I just ripped the adapter apart.

I printed one in ASA and that one broke as well, so I modified the model to make it stronger, but that one flew off my bike when I took a fast corner. So I learned a few things. First, I am riding an ebike, often going over 17mph on rough Milwaukee streets. I can’t always avoid potholes or other street damage so I bump and bounce occasionally. On a heavy bike with a heavy rider on bad streets the 3D printed version might not hold up.

The most recent failure involved the little part that uses a spring to click into place. I realized I should have printed the part sideways instead of flat. I re-printed, and with more shells and infill and it’s held up so far, but I’ve added a bungee cord to be safe.

I may go back to printing with PLA modifying things a bit. maybe creating a better locking mechanism than a spring loaded wedge part. I really think that’s the failure point, and it shouldn’t be too difficult to figure something out. The next alternative after that is to scrap this whole idea and come up with my own mounting solution. In theory it should be quick and easy to install and remove something from the rack, but it should hold well enough to not fall off… how hard could that be!?

Note: This post may contain Affiliate Links. Read More.

Categories
Uncategorized

GPX Files from an iPhone/Apple Watch

I use an Apple Watch along with an iPhone, and I start my “workouts” from my watch. If I am walking I just walk, but if I am biking I usually open the Fitness app on my phone (which is mounted to the handlebars) so I can see my progress.

When I do these things “routes” get created. A route is a series of points on a map that show where you have traveled. This is the thing that lets you see a map of your walk, run, ride, etc. I love seeing those maps! I like to know where I went. I get that not everyone does, but some of us nerd out on that stuff.

If you want to see all of your routes you can export (all of) your data from the Health app on the iPhone. For me it takes a while and creates a huge file. It’s getting all of my health data, not just the routes. After I did this a few times I started to assume there had to be a better way… and there is!

I found two free apps, GPX Route Exporter and GPX Export that are basic, and do what they say on the tin. The will export your routes. (Routes usually exist as GPX files hence the “GPX” in their names.)

Both apps are basic, but I think I liked GPX Export a bit more than GPX Route Exporter. Once nice feature is that it names the route with “Walking” or “Cycling” which is super-handy, because with the export from Apple Health you have to figure that out on your own. (I ended up writing some Python code that looked at the speed in the GPX file and then marked them as “walking” or “cycling” but it wasn’t perfect.)

I was really hoping for something a bit more… then I found Health Export CSV (also at healthexport.app) which does allow you to export a CSV file with all sorts of data, though I don’t use that feature… I just want my routes!

And the routes I shall have! It has many options and will separate activities so cycling routes are named as such, etc. Things look good! (The naming convention is like so: 2025-10-11 09-44-40 Cycling.gpx and 2025-10-11 11-43-30 Walking.gpx, which I like.) So here’s how I do it.

Launch the app and choose the Export workout routes button…

You can choose date presets or…

You can choose specific dates…

Once you make a date selection you press Share CSV which seems poorly labeled, but it is what it is…

It will run for a bit, depending on how much data there is…

And then you get the share dialog. If you exported more than one file you get a ZIP file containing them all. (The file dates of the GPX files are not the same as the date in the file name or of data in the file, but I have a Python script to fix that issue.)

Oh yeah, there’s one more thing… They have this Remote access service which you can subscribe to. The app itself was $2.99 USD but for the remote dashboard data stuff it’s (as of this post) $4.99 USD per month or $29.99 USD per year.

The dashboard thing looks nice, but I don’t need it as I am doing my own data processing… I just want the GPX files. The remote system uses that whole “secure Apple platform for web” thing, which is nice, if you’ve not seen it.

So Health Export CSV is working well for me. The only improvement I can imagine is if it could automatically export GPX files after a route is created. It could dump them into an iCloud folder or something. That would be a dream, as I could just automate the whole process and not have to manually do an export all the time. Oh well, pobody’s nerfect!

Categories
Uncategorized

Fixing a Watch Band (Again!)

Remember when I fixed my watch band? Well, it didn’t last. The replacement (from my old Fitbit) lasted a few weeks, but it also broke, so I went back to using rubber bands, until…

I thought to myself, just 3D print one! And I thought about doing it with TPU. But then I got lazy and just made one with PLA. I figured I would give that a try first, and… it does work!

I think I was convinced it needed to be soft and flexible but the PLA one has been under daily testing for over a week now and it might be just fine. The tricky part is I needed to make it just a little bit larger that the piece of metal it needs to slide over to get onto the band. But I didn’t want to make it too much larger. The size is a little annoying because I wish it were smaller, but without the flex of rubber or silicone or whatever, that isn’t happening. (And TPU probably wouldn’t have much stretch anyway.)

Just in case you need to do this too see the Watch Band Holder files in my OpenSCAD repository. Cheers!

Categories
Uncategorized

Aventon Level 3 Handlebar Upgrade

I recently upgraded the handlebars on my Aventon Level 3 to a set that was a little more swept back. Not exactly cruiser bars, mind you, but not as flat as the stock Level 3 bars.

I got these SENQI City Bike Handlebars (31.8mm) and they’re a great fit. When I rode Matt’s bike back in August I liked the handlebars on it, and I figured I woiud replace the stock Level 3 bars at some point.

The stock bars are little too aggressive. In fact, I find the bars on my Trek 7200 a bit too aggressive but they have the shifting integrated into the bars so they’re not easy to swap. Basically I wanted a little more upright position for riding, since I am mostly commuting to work, not out to win any races.

As for the swap, it probably took me about an hour. I didn’t rush, and I probably spent another 10 minutes after just making adjustments and riding in the alley to see how it felt.

The swap involved removing all of the stuff… grips, brakes, throttle, control pad, display… and my bell and phone holder. The pages on doing the Level 3 Handlebar Install and Handlebar Upgrades helped, but it’s not too complicated if you go slow, make notes, snap a few photos, and keep track of all the bolts.

Using a bike hex tool set wasn’t great so I’d recommend a screwdriver handle with a set of bits or separate hex keys. The fold-up sets are great for travel adjustments but not for this specific task.

(Above is a photo with the old handlebars right before I did the swap. I had tried to go for a ride but got rained out… good time to work in the garage on bike stuff!)

The cables for everything on the bars didn’t quite reach long enough for me to swap the throttle and control pad, so I gave up on that idea. (The idea was to move the throttle over since I don’t really use it. I wish disconnecting it altogether was easier.)

I do need to say that while I like the Aventon bike I am disappointed in the lack of specs on their components. I mean, this handlebar page doesn’t even have half of the information I’d like it to have. I would have perhaps ordered the bars from Aventon but experience tells me they don’t have specs on some things (or are not willing to share) and I may have another post about that soon.

Anyway… new handlebars, done… and I like them!

Categories
Uncategorized

Bike Commute to Work

As I mentioned in I eBiked to Work! I am now riding an ebike to work. I do this whenever I can. I rode 17 out of 22 work days in September. There were a few days it rained, or I had appointments during or after work that I could not easily get to by bike, but overall I prefer biking to work.

I’ve basically replaced my old morning routine which was; get up, go for a local bike ride, go home, then go to work with the new improved get up, do whatever at home, bike to work. And I of course bike home at the end of the day. I had feared there were days I’d be too tired to ride home but honestly I get excited to ride again at 5pm!

Anyway, I wanted to map out my route. The route changes as I mix it up, but this is the old standard “I don’t want to think about it” route. I leave Enderis Park and head west usually on Hadley, or maybe Locust or Chambers, and take that up to 92nd street. Crossing 76th and 84th is not too bad. The rest of the streets are not busy, sometimes I don’t even see a car on this segment. It’s typically under 10 minutes…

Once I cross 92nd street it’s free and clear and I can open it up and speed (25mph) all the way to the Menomonee River Parkway. I pass Mount Mary (on the side) and then get on the Menomonee River Parkway…

I take the Menomonee River Parkway riding with car traffic, trying to keep around 25mph if possible, and then almost always have to stop at Burleigh… Once past Burleigh it’s a smooth ride with no stops until I hit Mayfair Road.

Now Mayfair Road can be terrible. (See this post!) But again, once past it I get some smooth riding at top speeds with almost no car traffic. I take this to the end where it meets Congress…

And then I’m on Oak Leaf Trail, and then into the woods, right next to the river, and it’s the best part of the ride. (Except for the occasional swarm of bugs!) I get to ride under Capitol Drive. Super thankful I don’t have to cross Capitol!

Once I cross under Hampton I need to get back to road level and… deal with Hampton. It can be bad. I just need to go from Mayfair to 124th street. I cross the river, the railway, and the highway… uphill. I try to go as fast as I can to make being on this segment as short as possible. Also, right now there is construction, which is good and bad. Sometimes I get my own lane, sometimes there are barrels everywhere. It’s the worst but it’s less than 5 minutes.

The intersection of Hampton and 124th is where I need to take the lane because of people turning right. Again, not ideal but it hasn’t been too bad. After crossing 124th the speed limit on Hampton going into Butler is 25mph and people tend to keep it under 35 there, so it’s not terrible. Finally I get to Menomonee Falls which has no bike or parking lane at all and have to ride on a tiny bit of shoulder for about half a mile. Again, not ideal, but not too bad. I can do this ride under 30 minutes. My best time is 23 minutes, depending on how long I need to wait to cross the busy streets, and if I use top PAS and pedal like crazy!

Now, there are other routes, and sometimes I do mix it up a bit, but to cross the river, and railway, and freeway requires I make a choice of the big roads… Hampton, Capitol, Burleigh, or North, and they all have their pros and cons.

I am mainly posting this so I can look back in the future and see how my route changes. This is the route I discovered that made me decide I could actually bike to work, so I wanted to document it.

Keep on Pedaling!